Good grapes can make bad wine, but bad grapes cannot make good wine.  Whether the grapes and wine are good or bad, a great deal of the wine’s taste depends on the grapes and how they are grown.  There is a complex and dynamic interplay between the many factors that effect the growth of grapes.  Here is a cursory breakdown of those factors:

Appellation:  The appellation is the indicator of where the grapes came from.  The system for how this is described varies from country to country.  Typically, the more general the appellation, the lower the quality of the wine.  So, a wine labeled as ‘California’ will typically be of lesser quality than a wine labeled ‘Dry Creek Valley.’  The appellation can tell you quite a bit more than general quality, too.  A Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel, for example, can be expected to be high alcohol, full-bodied with a jammy, intense fruit quality.

Varietal:  The type of grape, of course, has a great deal of influence on the taste of the wine.  Remember, though, that it is only one factor, and the other factors can create great differences in the varietal’s expression.  For instance, cabernet sauvignon grown in cooler conditions may have much more vegetal aromas than what you are used to.  Matching varietal to vineyard is incredibly important.

Climate:  The weather patterns of a region, a vineyard, or even a specific row of vines has a great effect on the grapes.  For instance, colder areas tend to create more acidic wines with lower levels of sugar.  Similarly, some areas get more fog, which helps protect more delicate grapes, like pinot.  Temperature can vary by a couple degrees even within a vineyard.  Climate varies a great deal from year to year, which is why some vintages tend to be better than others.

Aspect:  This is the orientation of the grapes to climactic factors, particularly the sun.  A south-southeast facing slope in California will produce grapes with more concentrated flavors, due to sun exposure.

Growing methods:  The way the vineyard manager does his job affects the grapes, of course.  Much of this is somewhat arcane knowledge, but typical issues involve watering schedules, pruning, crop load per acre, training styles and pest control.  Take, for instance, the amount of crop per acre.  If many tons are grown per acre, the wine will have less flavor.  Viticulture is an area where the winemaker also tends to try to exert his or her influence.  One prominent example is the decision on when to pick, based on the taste of the grapes and the amount of sugar in the grapes, which is often a negotiation between the grower and the winemaker, even if they work for the same entity.

Miscellaneous:  There are many minor issues that arise that fit only partly into the above categories.  A common example is the effect (not always negative) that diseases and pests can have.  Picking and sorting of the grapes can also have a significant effect.

In my next entry, I will tell you about the grapes I chose to purchase this year and how all these factors play into that decision in practical terms.

Posted under Viticulture and Enology

Making wine is, like making love, is good for the soul.  Like making love, it can be romantic, can be messy, can have good or bad results and can take a great deal of effort.  Unlike making love, it is often a rather technical subject.  

Most of the time, with a small production, the winemakers are sanitizing (cleaning) equipment, which is tedious and boring.  The only interesting thing that can happen during sanitation is to nail someone with a high-pressure spray of 180 degree water, which is the bad kind of interesting.  In fact, not much interesting happens in wine production that is good.  The most exciting thing I’ve ever seen at a winery, was a tank full of hundreds of gallons of chenin blanc explode - again, the bad kind of interesting.

Still, I plan to report on some of the steps in the winemaking process.  Understanding the process of production is one of the best ways to understand wine in general.  After all, the wine production process is the second most important influence upon a wine’s character.  It is also the second influence chronologically.  The influences on a wine, in order of chronology and degree are: viticulture (growing the wine); vinification (producing the wine); storage and transportation of the finished product, whether long-term or short-term; and service (what glass you are drinking from, what you just ate, etc.)

 Most of the work for this harvest season is behind me, but I’ll try to do this chronologically.  The next article will be about procuring and selecting grapes.  

Posted under Viticulture and Enology